Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Monday, March 29, 2010
Friday, March 26, 2010
Time to plant those Onions!
Enjoy Great Flavor with this Versatile Vegetable
It's hard to imagine eating without onions. From fast-food burgers to the Thanksgiving dressing and green-bean casserole, onions add flavor and interest to otherwise dull ingredients. You can eat the tops as scallions, immature bulbs as green onions, or mature bulbs as regular onions. It's easy to grow your own from seeds, sets, or transplants
Project Steps
1) Start Your Onions Early
Sow onion seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your last frost date in spring. For a summer harvest, plant sets (small bulbs) or transplants in the garden 3 weeks before the last frost date. In mild-winter regions, you can plant transplants in early winter for an early summer harvest.
2) Plant In Good Soil
To grow best, onions need loose, well-drained soil free of rocks and debris. Raised beds are ideal. Amend the soil with compost or other organic matter, such as Miracle-Gro® Organic Choice® Garden Soil"> before planting.
3) Feed Your Onions Regularly
Apply a plant food that's high in phosphorus, such as Miracle-Gro® Liquid Quick Start® Plant Food, at the time of planting. Follow up with a complete plant food, such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, every 2 weeks during the growing season. Water regularly, but don't flood the planting bed.
4) Harvest Your Onions
About 8 weeks after planting, scallion tops should be 6-8 inches tall and ready for picking. You can harvest green onions any time after the bulb has formed. Mature onions should be ready for harvest in mid- to late summer, when the green tops start to turn brown and fall over. Then simply pull the onions from the ground.
Article found at Scotts. Stop by our store for your onions and other gardening supplies this spring. We are your helpful place!
Monday, March 22, 2010
Friday, March 19, 2010
Ace in Business Week's Top Ten in Customer Service
Ace Hardware was named one of BusinessWeek’s top ten “Customer Service Champs.” This is the third consecutive year that Ace made the top ten, and we were the only home improvement retailer to do it.
BusinessWeek used two main factors to determine customer service excellence:
- Existing data from J.D. Power & Associates about customer satisfaction
- An independent consumer survey conducted by the BusinessWeek Market Advisory Board
BusinessWeek specified several ways in which Ace has invested in customer service, such as increased mystery shops and strategic use of inventory technology. The latter allows store associates to focus on customer service rather than stock levels.
We have always been here to serve you, our customer. Whether you are working in the yard, or repairing your toilet, we have the helpful advice to help get your project done. Sure we usually have those small hard to fiind items, but we also sell products to complete those Big "Honey Do" Projects. Please remember us for all your hardware needs, we promise you will get the best service and helpful advice.
Thanks for making Ace Your Helpful Place!!
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Monday, March 15, 2010
Friday, March 12, 2010
Fertilize for the Lawn of Your Dreams
Make the neighbors wonder how you do it!
Keep up with the Joneses no more! Your lawn can look "professionally kept" without your checkbook looking like you professionally keep it. The importance of proper fertilization is paramount, and fortunately we have some advice to offer. Knowing that a good, healthy lawn will take time and effort, it's a snap to maintain once you have it established.
Your first step is to strip your lawn of any dead grass and debris. This can be done with a leaf rake or by renting a power rake if you have a rather large yard. When you're done with this step, your shoulders will ache and your lawn will actually look worse, but that's fine - it's all part of the plan.
You'll need to pick up some grass seed, which will be spread over the entire lawn. Ace carries several 99% weed-free seed blends. Choose the best one for your yard based on how much light your lawn gets, the climate of your region, how much traffic the lawn will receive, etc. The helpful folks at your local Ace Hardware can help you determine what seed is for you. If you want a little help determining just how much you need, look for the "Grass Seed Calculator" in the Project How-To's section.
Most of this project will require the use of a spreader. There are two types of spreaders: broadcast spreaders (such as Ace no. 7083751), which throw or "broadcast" (hence the name) the hopper contents in a pre-determined radius, and drop spreaders (such as Ace no. 7089337), which literally drop hopper contents the width of the hopper based on the where you walk (for example, a 20-inch drop spreader will drop a 20-inch wide path). You generally have more control of where the contents goes when using a drop spreader, but for covering rather large areas, a broadcast spreader makes the most sense, as many models can throw contents up to eight feet.
Using a spreader, cover the thinned-out lawn with the seed mix you chose. Once the seed is down, use the spreader to cover the seed with Ace's "Green Turf" lawn fertilizer (Ace no. 7014608) or Scott's "Lawn Pro" (Ace no. 75083). Both of these items can be used when overseeding. After the fertilizer has been spread, covering the lawn with peat moss will keep the seed moist when you water it and also keep the birds from eating all the seed. The peat moss can be spread by hand or using the spreader, provided you break the clumps up by hand into a fine, spreadable consistency.
You'll want to water the lawn regularly to achieve about an inch of water saturation. Deep, infrequent waterings are much more effective than short, daily efforts, as generally the roots of weeds grow only in the first two to three inches of soil. Therefore, the deeper the water soaks into the lawn, the more it will be going to the direct benefit of your grass versus the weeds.
Within about two weeks, you'll begin to see the new grass coming up. You'll also see some bare spots, which you'll want to add seed to by hand and cover with some peat moss to fill in. After about a month it will be safe to mow the lawn. Set your mower to a higher setting, leaving about 2 to 3-inches of blade height on the grass. After this initial cut, you can go back to your usual mowing height.
For fertilization, follow this schedule:
Step One: February-April - crabgrass preventer (Ace no. 7014665)
Step Two: April-June - weed and feed (Ace no. 7014632)
Step Three: June-August - lawn food (Ace no. 7014608)
Step Four: October-November - winterizer (Ace no. 7014681)
Follow these steps for the greenest lawn you've ever had. If you have additional questions about lawn care, ask the helpful folks at your neighborhood Ace Hardware store or feel free to e-mail me at asklou@acehardware.com.
Keep up with the Joneses no more! Your lawn can look "professionally kept" without your checkbook looking like you professionally keep it. The importance of proper fertilization is paramount, and fortunately we have some advice to offer. Knowing that a good, healthy lawn will take time and effort, it's a snap to maintain once you have it established.
Your first step is to strip your lawn of any dead grass and debris. This can be done with a leaf rake or by renting a power rake if you have a rather large yard. When you're done with this step, your shoulders will ache and your lawn will actually look worse, but that's fine - it's all part of the plan.
You'll need to pick up some grass seed, which will be spread over the entire lawn. Ace carries several 99% weed-free seed blends. Choose the best one for your yard based on how much light your lawn gets, the climate of your region, how much traffic the lawn will receive, etc. The helpful folks at your local Ace Hardware can help you determine what seed is for you. If you want a little help determining just how much you need, look for the "Grass Seed Calculator" in the Project How-To's section.
Most of this project will require the use of a spreader. There are two types of spreaders: broadcast spreaders (such as Ace no. 7083751), which throw or "broadcast" (hence the name) the hopper contents in a pre-determined radius, and drop spreaders (such as Ace no. 7089337), which literally drop hopper contents the width of the hopper based on the where you walk (for example, a 20-inch drop spreader will drop a 20-inch wide path). You generally have more control of where the contents goes when using a drop spreader, but for covering rather large areas, a broadcast spreader makes the most sense, as many models can throw contents up to eight feet.
Using a spreader, cover the thinned-out lawn with the seed mix you chose. Once the seed is down, use the spreader to cover the seed with Ace's "Green Turf" lawn fertilizer (Ace no. 7014608) or Scott's "Lawn Pro" (Ace no. 75083). Both of these items can be used when overseeding. After the fertilizer has been spread, covering the lawn with peat moss will keep the seed moist when you water it and also keep the birds from eating all the seed. The peat moss can be spread by hand or using the spreader, provided you break the clumps up by hand into a fine, spreadable consistency.
You'll want to water the lawn regularly to achieve about an inch of water saturation. Deep, infrequent waterings are much more effective than short, daily efforts, as generally the roots of weeds grow only in the first two to three inches of soil. Therefore, the deeper the water soaks into the lawn, the more it will be going to the direct benefit of your grass versus the weeds.
Within about two weeks, you'll begin to see the new grass coming up. You'll also see some bare spots, which you'll want to add seed to by hand and cover with some peat moss to fill in. After about a month it will be safe to mow the lawn. Set your mower to a higher setting, leaving about 2 to 3-inches of blade height on the grass. After this initial cut, you can go back to your usual mowing height.
For fertilization, follow this schedule:
Step One: February-April - crabgrass preventer (Ace no. 7014665)
Step Two: April-June - weed and feed (Ace no. 7014632)
Step Three: June-August - lawn food (Ace no. 7014608)
Step Four: October-November - winterizer (Ace no. 7014681)
Follow these steps for the greenest lawn you've ever had. If you have additional questions about lawn care, ask the helpful folks at your neighborhood Ace Hardware store or feel free to e-mail me at asklou@acehardware.com.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Friday, March 5, 2010
Anatomy of a Toilet
Ever go to the hardware store with Toilet questions and have a hard time discribing which part you need. This article will help you understand the parts and workings of a toilet, and hopefully help you in your next toilet repair. A constantly-running toilet can use up to 8,000 gallons of water each year. Fix the problem by installing a toilet repair kit that features a new valve, flapper and other devices that will conserve water. Average Savings: $25 - $100 per year.
(Article found at www.acehardware.com)
Flush-tank mechanisms consist of two control valves. Levers and other parts open or close these valves at the proper time.
One of these valves is the flush valve which is seated at the bottom of the tank. This is kept closed by a rubber flush ball, diaphragm or flapper. When the outside handle on the toilet tank is pressed down it raises a trip lever that pulls the flushing device off its seat. Water inside the tank pours through the opening to flush the toilet bowl.
The flushing device is held in place by water pressure; however, once the device is lifted by the trip lever, it remains off the seat by floating on top of the water until the tank is empty. As the water level drops, the flush ball or flapper gradually settles back into the opening, sealing it so the tank can refill for the next flush.
Some toilets have a trip lever with two-way action to conserve water. When pushed in one direction, a full flush occurs. When pushed the other direction, a partial flush results, which is adequate for water waste.
Standard toilets previously had 3.5 gallon tanks, but beginning Jan. 1, 1994, federal law mandated that toilets that use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush.
In their search for a method to increase flushing power, some manufacturers have introduced systems that harness compressed air to add greater velocity to each 1.6 gallon flush. These toilets hold water in a pressurized chamber until needed.
Refilling is controlled by the second valve mechanism, the inlet valve or ballcock. As the water level inside the tank drops, the hollow metal or plastic float ball drops, pulling the float arm down with it. This arm opens the inlet valve inside the ballcock and permits water from the supply line to pour into the tank through the ballcock.
As rising water forces the float ball upward, it gradually shuts off the inlet valve until the flow of water is stopped entirely when the tank is full.
If this valve fails to operate properly, the water does not shut off at the right time. Excess water then flows out through an overflow pipe, which stands vertically inside the tank.
A refill tube, which replaces water in the toilet bowl after it has been flushed, also squirts a small stream of water through the overflow pipe while the bowl is flushing. This refills a trap built into the toilet bowl to keep sewer gases from escaping into the house.
FLUSH VALVES
In some homes and many commercial buildings, a flush valve instead of a tank flushes the toilet bowl.
Flush valves may develop leaks around a vacuum breaker in the valve. It is often difficult to find which of several seals and/or diaphragms in the valve is leaking, so it is often best to recommend replacement of all internal parts. Flush-valve repair kits are available to facilitate replacements.
BALLCOCKS
Ballcocks or toilet fill valves are sold in pre-assembled units; replacement parts are available from the manufacturer, also in prepackaged units.
Replacement parts include upper lever, float rod, lower lever, plunger, valve seat, refill tube, nylon seat, eye screw, body, hush tube, regular shank, shank gasket, lock nut, coupling-nut washer, riser pipe and repair shank.
In addition to ballcocks, several other devices perform the same functions.
One is a toilet fill valve that can be installed underwater. It measures the water level from the bottom of a toilet tank. As the toilet is flushed and water level falls, its internal diaphragm senses the weight of the water above it. As the water level drops, the reduced pressure opens the fill valve and supply water enters.
When incoming water rises to a predetermined point (usually 8" deep), increased pressure on the diaphragm closes the valve.
This system is simpler than ballcock valves because it does not need a ball float or float rod and has fewer internal parts that can malfunction or wear out. These hydraulic systems, since they work with the water pressure, generally provide faster, more positive water shutoffs eliminating many of the noises associated with the older style filling valves.
(Article found at www.acehardware.com)
Flush-tank mechanisms consist of two control valves. Levers and other parts open or close these valves at the proper time.
The flushing device is held in place by water pressure; however, once the device is lifted by the trip lever, it remains off the seat by floating on top of the water until the tank is empty. As the water level drops, the flush ball or flapper gradually settles back into the opening, sealing it so the tank can refill for the next flush.
Some toilets have a trip lever with two-way action to conserve water. When pushed in one direction, a full flush occurs. When pushed the other direction, a partial flush results, which is adequate for water waste.
Standard toilets previously had 3.5 gallon tanks, but beginning Jan. 1, 1994, federal law mandated that toilets that use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush.
In their search for a method to increase flushing power, some manufacturers have introduced systems that harness compressed air to add greater velocity to each 1.6 gallon flush. These toilets hold water in a pressurized chamber until needed.
Refilling is controlled by the second valve mechanism, the inlet valve or ballcock. As the water level inside the tank drops, the hollow metal or plastic float ball drops, pulling the float arm down with it. This arm opens the inlet valve inside the ballcock and permits water from the supply line to pour into the tank through the ballcock.
As rising water forces the float ball upward, it gradually shuts off the inlet valve until the flow of water is stopped entirely when the tank is full.
If this valve fails to operate properly, the water does not shut off at the right time. Excess water then flows out through an overflow pipe, which stands vertically inside the tank.
A refill tube, which replaces water in the toilet bowl after it has been flushed, also squirts a small stream of water through the overflow pipe while the bowl is flushing. This refills a trap built into the toilet bowl to keep sewer gases from escaping into the house.
FLUSH VALVES
In some homes and many commercial buildings, a flush valve instead of a tank flushes the toilet bowl.
Flush valves may develop leaks around a vacuum breaker in the valve. It is often difficult to find which of several seals and/or diaphragms in the valve is leaking, so it is often best to recommend replacement of all internal parts. Flush-valve repair kits are available to facilitate replacements.
BALLCOCKS
Ballcocks or toilet fill valves are sold in pre-assembled units; replacement parts are available from the manufacturer, also in prepackaged units.
Replacement parts include upper lever, float rod, lower lever, plunger, valve seat, refill tube, nylon seat, eye screw, body, hush tube, regular shank, shank gasket, lock nut, coupling-nut washer, riser pipe and repair shank.
In addition to ballcocks, several other devices perform the same functions.
One is a toilet fill valve that can be installed underwater. It measures the water level from the bottom of a toilet tank. As the toilet is flushed and water level falls, its internal diaphragm senses the weight of the water above it. As the water level drops, the reduced pressure opens the fill valve and supply water enters.
When incoming water rises to a predetermined point (usually 8" deep), increased pressure on the diaphragm closes the valve.
This system is simpler than ballcock valves because it does not need a ball float or float rod and has fewer internal parts that can malfunction or wear out. These hydraulic systems, since they work with the water pressure, generally provide faster, more positive water shutoffs eliminating many of the noises associated with the older style filling valves.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
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